During motorcycle rides, a dashcam not only records the scenery along the way but also provides crucial evidence in case of unexpected accidents or disputes. It has become an essential accessory for more and more riders. However, many motorcycle owners hesitate to install it because they worry about the complexity. In fact, as long as you master the correct method, even beginners can complete the installation independently. This article will guide you through the entire motorcycle dashcam installation process from four dimensions: pre-installation preparation, step-by-step practical operation, precautions, and common problem solutions.
I. Pre-Installation: Complete These 3 Steps to Avoid Chaos
Adequate pre-installation preparation is the key to improving efficiency and reducing mistakes. It mainly involves three core links: “tool checking”, “equipment inspection”, and “wiring planning”. It is recommended to complete these steps 10-15 minutes in advance.
1. Essential Tool List (Beginners Are Advised to Prepare All to Avoid Interruption)
- Basic Tools: Phillips screwdriver (magnetic head type is preferred for easy screw adsorption), flat-head screwdriver (for different interface buckles), wire stripper (with insulation stripping function if you need to connect wires by yourself), insulating tape (waterproof type for wrapping wire joints), cable ties (5-10cm nylon type for fixing wires, it is recommended to prepare more).
- Auxiliary Tools: Flashlight (for checking dark areas such as the inside of the handlebar and frame gaps), marker pen (for marking wire routes or screw positions), gloves (to prevent hands from being scratched by metal edges during installation, non-slip type is optional).
- Special Tools: If the dashcam needs to be fixed on the helmet, additional 3M strong double-sided tape (high-temperature resistant type to avoid falling off due to high temperature) is required; if the motorcycle model has a hidden wire slot, a wire threader (or a hard iron wire as a substitute for auxiliary wire threading) can be prepared.
2. Equipment and Accessory Inspection (Avoid Problems Halfway Through Installation)
After unpacking, first check whether the dashcam accessories are complete. Usually, they include: main unit (front and rear dual-recording models include front and rear cameras), power cord (some models have USB interfaces, and some need to be directly connected to the battery), fixing bracket (handlebar bracket/mirror bracket/helmet bracket, selected according to the installation position), and instruction manual (focus on the wiring diagram and model adaptation tips).
Key inspection points: Whether there are scratches on the camera lens, whether the power cord connector is firm, and whether the bracket screws are compatible (some models require self-prepared compatible screws).
3. Wiring Planning (Key! Avoid Messy Wires or Wear)
According to the motorcycle structure and the dashcam power supply method (two mainstream methods), plan the wire route in advance. The core principle is “hiding as the main priority and avoiding high-temperature/moving parts”:
- Power Supply Method 1: Cigarette Lighter/USB Interface Power Supply (suitable for temporary installation or owners who do not want to touch the battery): The wire starts from the dashcam main unit, goes down along the inner side of the handlebar (the built-in wire slot of the handlebar can be used), extends to the cigarette lighter/USB interface, and the excess wire can be wrapped and fixed with cable ties.
- Power Supply Method 2: Direct Battery Power Supply (suitable for long-term use to avoid frequent plugging and unplugging): The wire starts from the main unit, goes down along the frame gap (or uses the vehicle’s built-in wire harness protective cover), passes under the fuel tank (be careful to avoid the oil pipe), and finally connects to the positive and negative poles of the battery. It is recommended to install a fuse on the positive wire (to prevent short circuit).
Key marking points: Use a marker pen to mark the positions where wires need to be fixed, such as the connection between the handlebar and the frame, the bracket under the fuel tank, etc., to ensure that the wires are not pulled by the rotation of the handlebar, the opening and closing of the seat, and other movements.
II. Step-by-Step Operation: Taking “Front and Rear Dual Recording + Battery Power Supply” as an Example (Beginners Can Complete in 1 Hour)
Step 1: Fix the Front Camera (Core Position to Ensure Clear Vision)
- Choose the installation position: Priority is given to the center of the handlebar (such as under the mirror bracket, above the instrument panel). The lens is required to face forward horizontally, and the field of view covers the front of the vehicle and the lanes on both sides (avoid the lens being blocked by the handlebar, hand guards, etc.).
- Fixing method: If using a bracket for fixing, first fix the bracket base on the handlebar with screws (ensure the base is tightly attached to the handlebar without shaking), then clamp the front camera into the bracket and tighten the fixing screws; if using 3M tape for fixing (suitable for positions without bracket installation), first clean the installation surface (wipe off oil stains with an alcohol pad), tear off the 3M tape protective film, press the camera on the installation surface, and keep it pressed for more than 10 seconds (to ensure firm adhesion).
- Adjust the field of view: After installation, sit in the riding position and check whether the camera screen covers the front of the vehicle (without obvious tilt). If there is a deviation, fine-tune the bracket angle or the camera position.
Step 2: Fix the Rear Camera (Focus on Covering the Rear of the Vehicle and the Rear Lanes)
- Installation position: Common positions include above the rear license plate frame, rear handrail bracket, and rear fender (ensure it is not blocked by the seat or luggage rack). It is recommended to choose a position that can cover both “the direct rear of the vehicle and the rear lanes”, such as under the middle of the rear handrail and the right side of the license plate frame (avoid the license plate light to prevent screen reflection).
- Fixing method: If using a license plate frame bracket, fix the rear camera bracket to the license plate frame with screws (be careful not to block the license plate number, in line with traffic regulations); if using 3M tape for fixing, clean the installation surface first, then stick and fix it, and ensure the lens faces backward horizontally (avoid the lens facing down, which causes the screen to only capture the ground, or facing up, which captures the sky).
- Wire connection: Connect the signal wire of the rear camera (usually Micro USB or a dedicated connector) to the “rear signal interface” of the front main unit, and wrap the connector with insulating tape (to prevent water ingress or looseness).
Step 3: Arrange and Fix the Wires (Hide Wires to Improve Safety)
- Arrange wires along the planned route: First, organize the signal wires and power cords of the front main unit and rear camera, and arrange them according to the previously planned route to avoid wire crossing or hanging.
- Fix the wires: At the previously marked positions, use cable ties to fix the wires to the vehicle’s existing wire harness or bracket (the distance between cable ties is recommended to be 15-20cm to ensure the wires are not loose). Cut off the excess cable ties with scissors (to avoid sharp edges scratching hands or clothes); if the wires pass through metal edges (such as frame welding joints), wrap the wires with insulating tape (to prevent wear of the insulation layer).
- Avoid dangerous areas: It is strictly forbidden to place wires near the exhaust pipe (high temperature will melt the wire insulation layer), chain (moving parts will break the wires), and brake cable/throttle cable (to avoid affecting control). If it is necessary to pass through these areas, wrap the wires with a wire harness protective cover and keep a distance of more than 5cm.
Step 4: Connect the Power Supply (Key! Ensure Power Supply Safety and Avoid Short Circuit)
- Preparation before connecting the battery: First, turn off the motorcycle power (turn the key to the “OFF” position), disconnect the negative pole of the battery (use a wrench to loosen the negative pole screw and remove the negative pole terminal) to avoid short circuit during wiring.
- Wiring steps:
- Find the battery position (usually under the seat or on the side of the frame, and the seat or side cover needs to be removed), and distinguish the positive and negative poles (the battery is marked with “+” for the positive pole and “-” for the negative pole);
- Connect the positive pole of the dashcam power cord (usually a red wire) to the positive terminal of the battery. If the power cord has a fuse, ensure the fuse is close to the positive pole (no more than 10cm from the battery for easy replacement later);
- Connect the negative pole of the power cord (usually a black wire) to the negative terminal of the battery;
- Tighten the positive and negative pole screws with a wrench to ensure the wiring is firm (pull the wire gently to ensure no looseness), then wrap the terminals with insulating tape (to prevent water ingress or contact with metal parts causing short circuit).
- Restore the battery: Reconnect the previously disconnected negative pole of the battery and tighten the screws.
Step 5: Debugging and Testing (Ensure Normal Function and No Faults)
- Power-on check: Turn on the motorcycle power (turn the key to the “ON” position), the dashcam should start automatically (if it does not start, check whether the power cord connection is firm and whether the battery power is sufficient), and check whether the front and rear camera screens are clear and whether there are problems such as black screen or freezing.
- Function test: Test the video recording function (press the recording button to check whether the video recording is normal), the recording function (turn on the recording and speak to test whether it can be recorded), and the emergency lock function (press the emergency button to check whether the current video can be locked to avoid being overwritten); if the dashcam has a WiFi function, it can be connected to the mobile APP to view the real-time screen and video playback to confirm the signal is stable.
- Riding test: In the idle state, turn the handlebar (to the maximum angle left and right) and check whether the wires are pulled (no tightness); ride for a certain distance (1-2 kilometers), check whether the camera is loose and whether the wires are displaced after parking, and check whether the video screen is stable (no screen blurring caused by vibration).
III. Precautions: Neglecting These 5 Points May Lead to Installation Failure or Equipment Damage
- Avoid Damaging the Original Vehicle Wires: If you are not familiar with battery wiring, do not cut the original vehicle wire harness at will (you can consult a motorcycle repair shop or check the vehicle wiring diagram); when connecting the battery, be sure to disconnect the negative pole first to prevent the tool from touching the positive and negative poles and causing a short circuit (a short circuit may burn the battery or dashcam).
- Adequate Waterproof Treatment: Motorcycles may encounter rain during riding, so waterproof treatment is required for key parts: camera interface (wrapped with waterproof tape), battery terminal (insulating tape + waterproof cover), rear camera (if installed outdoors, choose a model with a waterproof rating of IP67 or above, and check whether the lens cover seal is intact after installation).
- Necessary High-Temperature Protection: The temperature near the motorcycle exhaust pipe and engine is relatively high in summer, so the wires should be kept away from these areas; if the wires must be close (such as the side of the frame), wrap them with a high-temperature resistant wire harness protective cover (choose a material that can resist temperatures above 100℃) to avoid melting of the insulation layer.
- Compliant Installation to Avoid Violating Traffic Regulations: When installing the dashcam, do not block the instrument panel and rearview mirror view (which affects riding safety), and do not block the license plate (which violates the “Road Traffic Safety Law”). If the rear camera is installed on the license plate frame, ensure it does not block the license plate number and license plate light.
- Regular Inspection and Maintenance: After installation, check the wire fixing status once a month (to prevent wire displacement caused by loose cable ties), check the battery terminals once a quarter (to prevent oxidation and rust, and if there is oxidation, polish it with sandpaper and reconnect), and check whether the camera and interface are flooded after riding in rainy days, wipe them dry in time and do a good job of waterproof treatment.
IV. Common Problem Solutions: Don’t Panic When Encountering These Problems
- The Dashcam Has a Black Screen and No Image After Power-On:
- Troubleshooting steps: First, check whether the power cord is connected in reverse (whether the positive and negative poles are connected incorrectly), then check the battery power (if the battery is dead, it needs to be charged before testing), and finally check whether the signal wire between the camera and the main unit is firmly connected (replug the connector and fix it with tape).
- The Video Screen Is Blurry or Has Reflection:
- Causes of blurriness: Dirt on the lens (wipe with a lens cloth), loose camera (re-fix the bracket), deviation of the lens angle (fine-tune the lens to ensure it is horizontal);
- Causes of reflection: The rear camera is facing the license plate light (adjust the camera angle to avoid direct light), the front camera is facing the instrument panel reflection (paste an anti-reflective film above the instrument panel or adjust the camera height).
- The Wires Are Pulled When the Handlebar Is Turned:
- Solution: Loosen the cable ties fixing the wires at the handlebar, reserve a wire length of 5-10cm (to ensure sufficient wire allowance when the handlebar is turned), and re-fix with cable ties to avoid tight wires.
- Battery Drain (After Long-Term Non-Riding):
- Cause: Some dashcams have high standby power consumption, which may cause the battery to drain if not ridden for a long time (such as more than 1 week);
- Solution: Choose a dashcam with “low-voltage protection” (automatically powers off when the power is lower than 12V), and disconnect the dashcam power cord (or remove the battery negative pole) when not riding for a long time.
Conclusion
Motorcycle dashcam installation is not complicated. As long as you make adequate preparations, operate step by step, and pay attention to details, even beginners can complete it independently. After installation, it can not only provide protection for riding safety but also record the scenery and stories along the way. If you encounter complex problems during the installation process (such as special vehicle structure and hidden wires), it is recommended to consult a professional motorcycle maintenance personnel in time to avoid vehicle or equipment damage caused by improper operation. We hope this article can help you complete the installation smoothly and start a safer riding journey!